Port Charcot, Booth Island: stunning Antarctic destination
In the midst of the pristine embrace of the Antarctic realm, Port Charcot on Booth Island stands as an awe-inspiring destination that draws in nature enthusiasts and keen photographers alike. This remarkable location boasts a wide bay that doubles as a natural harbour, offering a tranquil refuge amidst the rugged Antarctic landscape. Dotted with small coves that hold their own mysteries, Port Charcot’s allure is further enriched by its historical significance. It is a place that was once visited by a French Antarctic expedition under the command of Jean-Baptiste Charcot, a well-known figure in polar exploration. Join us as we delve into the captivating world of Port Charcot, where breathtaking scenery, hidden treasures, playful wildlife and a sense of historical reverence converge to create an unforgettable Antarctic experience.
Where is Booth Island?
Booth Island is a long Y-shaped island in the northeastern part of the Wilhelm Archipelago in Antarctica, on the Western side of the Lemaire Channel. The island itself spans 8 kilometres in length. And Port Charcot stretches across 2.4 kilometres and is located at the northern tip of Booth Island. Starting from the southern shoreline of the northwest branch, known as Salpêtrière Bay, the terrain gradually inclines northward, leading to a 50-meter hill. On the opposite shore of the north side of Booth Island, there is a small pebbled inlet named Français Cove. It is nestled between two rocky islets off the coast, with a series of rocky formations encircling the bay for protection.
Our visit
Date: afternoon, 13 December 2022.
Conditions: Sunny and mild (0-1°C (34°F)), but very windy.
What We Did:
- Hiking up from the Salpêtrière Bay to the cairn signifying the French Expedition led by Jean-Baptiste Charcot.
- Hiking east towards the foot of Jeanne Hill.
- Observing Gentoo penguin colonies.
- Spotting Chinstrap Penguins.
- Seabird watching.
- We were scheduled to camp here overnight. Unfortunately, it was cancelled due to strong winds.
Notable Things We Saw:
- Gentoo penguins going around their day and lots of penguin eggs.
- Chinstrap penguins waddling around and posing for pictures.
- Skuas stealing penguin eggs.
- Majestic icebergs on the North-Western arm of the island.
- A memorial spot in the form of a cairn with a wooden pillar and a stone-built magnetic hut to commemorate the overwintering site of the French Antarctic expedition.
Port Charcot: Landing site on Booth Island
The ships typically arrive at the Salpêtrière Bay (a primary landing site on Booth Island). From there, zodiac boats make their way through the sea ice towards the shoreline. However, it is also possible to disembark in the small bay of Français Cove. However, during low tide, the bay is too shallow and rocky to land.
Once we stepped foot on land, we had a choice of two routes: a short walk with a gentle slope towards the penguin colonies, or a steeper incline towards the cairn on the Northern shore. The walking areas were marked by red flags and expedition leaders stood along the way to guide us and answer questions.
Whilst you can choose which route to take, we found that we had just enough time to do both routes.
The steeper hike up to the cairn provides the explorers with magnificent views of the small offshore rocky islets and majestic icebergs surrounding the north end of Booth Island. At the highest point of the route, we were greeted by a wooden pillar that signifies the historic location of the French Antarctic Expedition’s winter base.
On the other side, large penguin colonies greeted us enthusiastically. Some were sitting on their eggs, protecting them from the skuas that were always around looking for their next meal. Others were playfully sliding down the slippery slopes. Yet others were simply posing for pictures, showing off their dirty bellies.
Restrictions
Explorers have the freedom to wander within the area extending from the main arrival point in Salpêtrière Bay, venturing northward over the ridge to Port Charcot, and heading eastward towards the penguin colonies nestled at the base of Jeanne Hill. Nevertheless, the rugged incline on the north side of Jeanne Hill is restricted. The southern flank of Jeanne Hill remains open, yet it is full of crevasses and potential hazards, so explorers are not usually allowed to venture there without a guide. It is crucial to exercise caution and adhere to the marked pathways while journeying toward the cairn, as this will help avoid navigating treacherous, steep slippery slopes below.
What is more, to safeguard the fragile ecosystem, strict guidelines limit the number of explorers on Booth Island. A maximum of two ships per day are granted permission to access the port, with one of the two vessels limited to carrying a passenger count of 200. Furthermore, a total of 100 individuals can be on land at any given time.
Short History
The island’s discovery and naming are credited to the German expedition led by Eduard Dallmann during 1873–74. The name likely pays tribute to Oskar Booth or Stanley Booth, or possibly both, who were associated with the Hamburg Geographical Society at that period. Subsequently, during the Belgian Antarctic Expedition of 1897–1899, the name “Wandel Island” was proposed, honouring Danish polar explorer and hydrographer Carl Frederick Wandel. However, the United States Advisory Committee on Antarctic Names favoured the original designation of Booth Island and rejected the name “Wandel Island.” Nonetheless, the name “Wandel” remains for the island’s highest peak.
While elements of the island’s landscape were likely first observed by Dallmann’s expedition, it wasn’t until the Third French Antarctic Expedition of 1903–1905 that detailed charting of the island took place. Many of the island’s features were named by the leader of the expedition, Jean-Baptiste Charcot. The nomenclature he assigned typically commemorated expedition members, notable French scientists, or individuals connected to Charcot through friendship or family ties.
These days, Booth Island, and mostly Port Charcot is a popular tourist destination. The island is also a base for scientific observations (especially, wildlife, snow algae and various moss species) and astronomical observations.
Wildlife around Port Charcot
North of Booth Island not only offers fantastic views of the frozen landscape but is a wonderful place to spot wildlife. Look out for:
- Penguins: eastwards of the landing site, you can see Gentoo penguin colonies, but keep an eye out for Adelie and Chinstrap penguins too.
- Seals: Weddell Seals and Antarctic Fur Seals are often spotted poking their heads out of the water around the north shore. We also caught a brief glimpse of a leopard seal swimming next to our zodiac boat, as well as a crabeater seal lounging on an ice floe.
- Whales: Flukes of humpback whales often make an appearance in the waters around Booth Island. This Antarctic destination is also frequented by Minke whales. Keep an eye out when you are out on deck on the ship – we saw plenty of them investigating the ship.
- Seabirds: We saw plenty of kelp gulls, snowy sheathbills and brown skuas on the island. We even managed to capture a blue-eyed shag on camera. Furthermore, a curious Wilson’s storm petrel was following the ship when we were approaching Port Charcot. The best place to spot seabirds from the deck is the aft of the ship.
Photography opportunities
- Penguin Interactions: Immerse yourself in the captivating world of Antarctica’s charismatic inhabitants: penguins. These creatures, famous for their charming waddles and playful antics, win over the hearts of wildlife photographers. However, capturing their essence in the midst of untouched wilderness demands finesse and preparation. Explore our Penguin Photography Guide, an invaluable resource that unveils techniques and essential advice for capturing endearing penguin portraits.
- Iceberg Photography. Our Iceberg Photography Guide serves as a treasure trove of practical insights, encompassing camera settings, motion strategies, and prime vantage points to immortalize these natural wonders in your shots.
- Seabirds. From the graceful Wilson’s storm petrel to the majestic south polar skua, the birdlife of this region offers a breathtaking display. Whether equipped with a high-end or entry-level lens, our Antarctic Bird Photography guide empowers you to capture stunning photographs of these winged marvels through expert tips and techniques.
- Whales and Seals. As you navigate the icy waters during the zodiac cruise, keep watch for the grandeur of whales emerging from the depths, providing fleeting glimpses of their impressive flukes. And don’t disregard the enigmatic dark shapes scattered across the ice floes – they’re more than mere rocks; they are sunbathing seals.
- Grand Landscapes. From the rugged shore of Booth Island to the majestic ice formations and sweeping vistas, the diverse landscapes of Port Charcot serve as a captivating canvas for photographers seeking to document the beauty and unique features of the polar region.
What else is there to do in Port Charcot?
While on deck, visitors can unwind and soak in the breathtaking views that surround them. Keep a watchful eye on the waters, as the chance to spot humpbacks and minke whales adds an exciting dimension to the experience. The area’s marine life doesn’t stop at whales – seals of various kinds also make their appearances, providing a thrilling opportunity to catch a glimpse of these fascinating creatures. Make sure to have your binoculars close by! For avid bird enthusiasts, Port Charcot is a paradise. Engage in bird watching as you observe the graceful flight and unique behaviours of the region’s seabirds.
Even if the landing site is inaccessible due to sea ice, the adventure doesn’t stop. Embark on a zodiac cruise, offering an up-close encounter with majestic icebergs and the playful antics of penguins frolicking in and out of the water along the coastline.
The opportunities for exploration continue as some expedition cruise lines organize kayaking adventures along the shoreline. Paddle your way through the icy waters, immersing yourself in the rugged beauty of the surroundings. While Booth Island often invites travellers to partake in overnight camping, the unpredictable and strong winds we encountered sadly prohibited us from experiencing this unique aspect firsthand. Despite this setback, Port Charcot remains an all-encompassing destination, offering a medley of experiences that epitomize the wonders of the Antarctic environment.
